Sunday 8 April 2007

Oh Crikey, it's Togo!

Well groovers, this update comes hot and direct from the improbably narrow land of Togo. I actually had to turn sideways to get through the border and Naartjie has had to stay in Ghana as he won't fit. The days since the last update have been filled with tropical-weather action, mostly involving constant reminders of how bad a choice it was to use leather riding pants every time it rains.

After a few days in charming Burkina Faso, I headed for the Ghanain border with other Brit-In-Africa rider Paul Hurcomb who I'd met again in Ouagadougou, or 'Waga' as everyone seems to call it. Alas, he didn't have a visa, so they sent him avay with a mosquito in his ear to go and get one. Meanwhile, I (bravely and manfully, I might add) soldiered on into the amazingly undeveloped hinterlands of Northern Ghana where roads haven't yet been invented. The ride south to Accra saw things getting greener and lusher and more and more developed until, by the time I got there, I thought I'd got lost and ended up in Penrith. Accra really is a proper metropolis - with unleaded petrol and everything!! The only slightly alarming event en route was when I accidentally spent the night in a brothel, as it was the only roadside hotel about. I thought it was a bit odd when the lady asked how many hours I wanted the room for.

Anyway, next job was securing the dreaded Nigerian visa. This is the subject of many travel-forum horror stories but turned out to be quite easy, if a bit expensive at USD100 for a single entry 14 day visa. Spurning the Rastas and musicians of the Ghanain coastal resorts (not my cup of Oolong, old chap) I headed East and squeezed into Togo.

The capital, Lome is unique in West Africa having a KTM dealership, which apparently opens on Monday. As such, I'm hatching plans of buying a new back tyre and getting Naartjie serviced. As with all things in Africa though, you can't count your chickens.

Next plans are to blast through Benin, and head for Nigeria. Have to admit, I'm a wee bit nervous about the next bit of the adventure but as Claire and the kids are South, it's South I must go. Meanwhile, here is a pic of Africa made out of shells. Its was proudly shown to me by a Togolese shingle farmer yesterday, who insisted I share it with the world.

Best wishes to you all. Thanks for the comments and Haikus. Keep 'em coming :-)

8 comments:

Anonymous said...

"accidentally".....mmmmmmmmmmm!!
Glad to see you're making progress.
Just going to sit down to Johnson's steak pie - enjoy your tip fed goat.
Everyone says hi.

Anonymous said...

AB, sitting at home and catching up on your blog. seems some of the carousel lot are having their own private battle and ignoring the adventure you are reporting. That said, BF spotted a KTM in north wales last week which has started us pondering the benefits of the modern age and led us to believe that you actually have your feet up in a B+B, posting your blog between pints of local bitter and welsh rarebits!

Anonymous said...

In your true style you appear to be having a great time. I am sure it was a strain for you to put up for a night in the Brothel, mmmmmmmm not.
Glad to see that you haven't fallen of yet. Great to read about the sights.
JEDRUK

Anonymous said...

How do you farm shingles?

Anonymous said...

Great to hear from you, I hear you are in Togo for a week whilst awaiting a tyre for Narchie. This really is one big holiday! No comment on the Brothel mmmmmmmmmmmm!
Take Care.

Anonymous said...

Brothel mmmmmmm!!
Just close your eyes and think of England :-) DM.

Anonymous said...

Fascinating reading, good to hear everything is going well..... beats playing wityh software!

More photos please

Kev Turnock

Ecki Thump said...

Wet leather pants and brothels.... are you sure you're not in Germany?
Enjoy. Ian S